Walking is the best way to see Boston. The narrow, twisting streets that make driving such a headache are a treat for pedestrians, who are never far from something worth seeing. The central city is compact -- walking quickly from one end to the other takes about an hour -- and dotted with historically and architecturally interesting buildings and neighborhoods.

In this section you'll find a tour of Boston's Back Bay and one of Harvard Square in Cambridge, plus some pointers to help you check out the Big Dig. For information on Boston's most famous walking tour, the 3-mile Freedom Trail.

Be sure to wear comfortable shoes, and if you're not inclined to pay designer prices for designer water, bring your own bottle and fill it with ice at your hotel. By the time it's ready for you, you'll be ready for it.

The Dirt on the Big Dig--Much as I'd love to outline a stop-by-stop tour of the Big Dig, chances are good that it would be out of date before I even hit the "print" button. As the project proceeds, it changes almost daily, affecting the route of both streets and sidewalks. The schedule for 2004 includes the demolition of the elevated expressway, which promises to be fascinating.

You can visit the website (www.bigdig.com) to download a diagram and descriptions of a self-guided tour of the whole shebang that takes at least 2 hours. If you don't have that kind of time -- or if you're interested but not that interested -- then wait until you're going downtown anyway, and leave an extra half-hour or so for exploring.

Two important notes: Be careful. It sounds obvious, but despite abundant warning signs, at least one pedestrian and two motorists have fallen into construction ditches. Get a grip on the kids, and don't lean over or into anything. And wear sturdy shoes -- there's gravel all over the place.

Every T stop near the harbor -- North Station, Haymarket, Aquarium, State, and South Station -- is close to or in the middle of the Big Dig. As you leave these stations, you'll see signs directing you around the construction. Many of the concrete barriers that enclose the work area have transparent panels attached to their top edges, allowing a clear view of the activity on the other side. The underpass from Blackstone Street to Cross Street, near Haymarket, is a good place for this. If something interesting is going on, you'll have plenty of company.

Tips: For the best chance of seeing work in progress, visit on a weekday during daylight hours. To get a sense of what's complete, check around on a weekend, especially early in the morning. And if you want to blend in, wear boots, jeans, and an orange top (T-shirt, sweatshirt, or vest).